Seven years ago, before he was even officially named designer of the brand, Mr. Out of 84 looks, only 10 involved skirts, dresses, or, in one case, a lace teddy. So many suits, or suit-adjacent styles (sometimes they involved shorts, or blazers), the whole thing seemed like a men’s wear show. Suits with skinny ties and big bags and kooky accessorizing.
Out of the dissonance came double-breasted suits in navy and sky-blue and chocolate brown suits with tuxedo lapels and cowhide trim. It was the single most dominant garment at Gucci, a brand returning to the Milan catwalk after two years away with a show held against a set lined in fun house mirrors, and lit by the flashing of strobes. The suit, with its associations with power, status, gender conformity and nonconformity, armor and protection (not to mention adulthood), that makes you feel immediately girded for the day, may be the garment best - well, suited, for the times. “I started cutting all the frivolous things.” “For the last few weeks I have felt myself getting very serious,” said Walter Chiapponi of Tod’s, who also began his no-nonsense show of plush tailoring with a somber, single-breasted dark pantsuit under a dark overcoat. And it’s not the pivot to party mayhem that was once predicted.īut then, the world is not such a comforting place at the moment. When both Alessandro Michele of Gucci and Donatella Versace (not to mention Dolce & Gabbana, and Ambush) open their shows with a suit - dark, tailored, slightly oversize - something clearly is going on. All those predictions about elastic waists and leggings and flats and the way the pandemic had changed dressing forever turn out to have been not so true after all.
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